“O hushed October morning mild, thy leaves have ripened to the fall,” wrote Robert Frost in his ode to the American autumn, beguiled by the changing of the leaves, the ripening of the grapes and the almost imperceptible slow-down in the natural world after the frenzied heat of summer had passed. It's no wonder he was so enchanted by this annual changing of the guard. As the weather cools and the leaves begin to turn, the USA and Canada transform into vibrant kaleidoscopes of colour.
Nature is prompted to put on its most splendid shows, from the wildly beautiful northern lights to the wildlife readying itself for winter; and with fewer crowds to spoil the view, it's often a better time to explore the coasts, countryside and cities across the continent. Add to that a host of arts festivals, events and attractions that fill the calendar from September to November, and it's hard to imagine why you would want to travel at any other time.
To track down the best autumnal experiences, we've canvassed local experts across the USA and Canada to find out what they love about this time of year.
KEY
Quieter Time
Event/Festival
Weather/Nature
LEAF-PEEPING FOR ALL IN TENNESSEE
Seeing the rich hues of autumn is a special experience. But for those who are colour-blind, those vivid shades can be impossible to tell apart. That's why Tennessee's state parks have introduced viewfinders that use special lenses to enable those with colour-blindness to see the leaves in all their bright, blazing glory.
Leigh Gardner, ranger at the Justin P Wilson Cumberland Trail State Park, says: “People who cannot perceive red-green colours can use these viewfinders to see the autumnal colours change. We have an Access 2030 initiative to create more accessibility – paved trails, parks with all-terrain wheelchairs – so folks with limited mobility can see more of the park, and we don't charge an entry fee because we're trying to make sure that the parks remain accessible to all.
“The waterfalls start to pick up toward the end of fall, so if you're lucky, you'll get that waterfall-autumnal colour combination as you enter the final weeks of November.” KM
EMBRACE TRADITIONAL CELTIC HERITAGE IN CAPE BRETON
You can't talk about fall on Cape Breton Island without mentioning Celtic Colours International Festival, a nine-day musical and cultural romp that brings the island community together. Gaelic-speaking Scottish Highlanders brought music, dance and language to the eastern edge of North America nearly three centuries ago, and it has been passed down the generations to form part of today's living culture.
Mabou native Dawn Beaton, the festival's artistic director (and a talented fiddler), says: “Fall in Cape Breton is tough to beat. The highlands burst into colour, accompanied by the sound of fiddles, guitars, Gaelic singing and step-dancing.
“Celtic Colours takes place every October and offers an island wide window into this culture, with concerts held in community halls, schools, churches and theatres. As you drive the island, look for workshops and community turkey dinners, or join in on a family square dance or milling frolic.” SCM
TAKE IN WINE AND HIGHLANDS IN SONOITA, ARIZONA
Just 45 minutes’ drive south of Tucson lies Sonoita. This is wine country, and as far removed from the cactus-strewn deserts of Arizona as you'll find, especially when the grape harvest gears up in autumn and the slopes still glisten green from the August monsoon, explains Todd Bostock of Dos Cabezas Wineworks.
“South of Tucson, the road starts to climb, the hills begin to roll and you can reach up to 1,300m. It's quite a bit cooler up here, so back in the 1970s, when they were looking for places in the Four Corners states to grow high-value, low-water crops, they picked Sonoita as having the most potential for cultivating wine grapes. Our vineyard now grows 30 varieties.
“There are ten wineries open for tastings in the area, and services in Tucson can pick you up and drop you off for the day. We've also got the Santa Rita Mountains on our doorstep – Mount Wrightson (2,882m) even has grapevines growing wild on its slopes. It's dry and warm in early autumn, so pack a picnic and head out.” GC
FOLLOW THE BIRD MIGRATION ALONG THE GEORGIA COAST
“Little St Simons Island is the jewel of the Georgia coast,” says Stacia Hendricks, director of special projects at The Lodge on Little St Simons Island. “Geologically it's quite young – only about 4,000 years old – but it is one of the few remaining islands that was never harvested of its canopy.
“Georgia's coast has 14 major barrier islands and five major river systems, so we have estuaries where freshwater and saltwater mix, making great feeding sites for migratory birds. The peak of that migration is late September and early October.”
This is the time to spot red knots, which travel from the tip of South America to the fertile feeding grounds of the Arctic, along with black-bellied plovers, long-billed curlews and rainbow-bright painted buntings.
“My favourite is the American oystercatcher. It's an extraordinary bird that can live up to 40 years and eats a bushel of oysters each day. It's not just happenstance that birds stop in Georgia; the more we learn about the journey, the more astonishing it is. This has been going on for millions of years and we are only beginning to scratch the surface of understanding.” KM
WATCH THE BUFFALO ROAM IN SOUTH DAKOTA
Autumn in the Black Hills revolves around one thing: buffalo. Custer State Park's annual round-up, held on the last Friday of September, sees visitors flock to watch cowboys wrangle the 1,400-strong herd and visit the park's, visitor services supervisor at the park.
