LOUIS VUITTON
Nicolas Ghesquière’s latest collection seeked to answer that eternal query: What is French style? The collection he showed did not provide a succinct definition but it did offer up myriad propositions on how to do French chic. First, there was a whiff of the Eighties—an era Ghesquière constantly revisits. It manifested in beaded dresses worn under pleated blazers, balloon trousers and cinched jackets, and bustier dresses worn with shoulder-padded knits. Then came more timeless looks: crisp jackets and trousers that were cut slim but not severe; camel coats and jackets worn with black leather pants; and a piece that was halfway between shirtdress and oversize shirt, worn with a little vest and an oversize dickie. Towards the end, Ghesquière channelled the more eclectic side of Parisian style—delicate slips worn with chunky scarves; jacquard robes paired with frayed and distressed bermudas.
MIU MIU
After a blockbuster three-season run redefining what sexy looks like, Miuccia Prada has pivoted to… normcore. Of course, in Prada’s hands, nothing is ever quite what it seems. The first section seemed to riff on the ladylike uniforms of the bourgeoisie—twinsets, camel coats, polka dots. But the tops were tucked into briefs that have been hiked up above the skirts, the models’ hair were balloon-static frazzled, and
