CHANEL
Virginie Viard’s starting point was Last Year at Marienbad, the atmospheric 1961 film costumed by Coco Chanel. So it was no surprise that the resulting collection had a cinematic quality to it. The first look set the tone: A flowing sheer black cape, clasped at the neck with a feathery black camellia; worn with a black-and-white top collaged from film stills, lace-trimmed silk shorts and crystal-encrusted flats. It was the epitome of effortless elegance, and what came after hewed close to that formula. First, black-and-white polka dots—occasionally and subtly interspersed with camellias—on jacket-dresses, skirts and sweaters, and suits of both trouser and skirt varieties; then, creamy or pastel tweeds, sometimes bedecked with sparkles or feathers. Silhouettes were either short and sweet, or elongated and slouchy—the common thread was a breezy, easy-to-wear factor. The evening portion came with more gilt and glitter but maintained the same relaxed vibe. The finale dresses—in both sheer and opaque blacks, and cut in simple shapes elevated by exquisite craftsmanship—were a refreshing antidote to the trend of over-ostentation.
LOUIS VUITTON
Nicolas Ghesquière’s spring/summer 2023 collection was a masterclass in proportion play with blown-up zippers, pockets, belts and straps taking centrestage. To drive the point home, Ghesquière also inflated the necklines and hips of the opening looks. These were followed by boxy, tailored pieces emblazoned with enlarged photographic prints of buckles. The accessories too received the same supersize treatment—the key holders and luggage tags that usually adorn the House’s bags were scaled up to bag-size themselves, while wallets on chains became oversize clutches. Even when Ghesquière showed mini pleated dresses or baby-doll numbers—some in sweetly coloured lace, others finished with a giant bow—a zippy sportiness and tougher utilitarian sensibility came through with the addition of boots and zips and pockets. The quartet of finale dresses were some of the season’s best takes on the utility trend.
