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    A Bangkok chef took a radical approach to Thai cooking. Now the world's on notice

    by Jenn Harris, Los Angeles Times Sep 11, 2023 5 minutes
    Chef Ton shopping at a local market, where he buys a basket of shrimp from one of the vendors.

    Bangkok is a city that feels in constant motion, with an energy that shifts from one block to the next. Skyscrapers soar in towers of mirrored glass and razor-sharp metal. Temples glisten in the sun and glow in the dark. Night markets boast fried, steamed, grilled, frozen and sauteed delights on a stick, in a cone or on straw platters as large as your table. Streets are lined with vendors pushing noodles, grilled meats and plastic-wrapped citrus painstakingly stripped of all trace of peel, pith and membrane. Motorbikes zigzag between three-wheeled tuk-tuks. The traffic makes rush hour in Los Angeles seem like the autobahn.

    Thitid Tassanakajohn, 38, chef-owner of Nusara, Baan and Le Du restaurants in Bangkok, wants you to fall in love with it all.

    During a recent trip, he insists we try his favorite place for lunch in

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