A Thai princess and her entourage sweep through the glass-atrium foyer of Time Kaan, past tall cabinets stuffed to the ceiling with antique tomes and recipe books, to take a seat for dinner. Dutiful waiters are lined up against the wall waiting to be called forward, and the mingled fragrance of cinnamon, pepper and coconut drifts from the kitchen. A flash-happy photographer buzzes around the dining room, capturing the royal arrival, while, behind him, a large clock with golden hands counts down the minutes to the first course.
After opening in December 2022 in Bangkok’s Khlong Tan Nuea district, Time Kaan — its name meaning ‘according to time’ in Thai — quickly became the talk of the town. Restaurant critics have admired the subtle flavours
