Greek growers are the special forces of the wine world. Armed with varieties tough enough to thrive in near-drought conditions, deploying a sense of self-reliance by specialising in small-scale, low-intervention winemaking, equipped with canny thriftiness and honouring the alliance of wine with food, these quietly confident wine-growers are the perfect specialists to lead the world of wine in the face of both economic hardship and climate emergency.
After the annual Greek wine fair Oenorama in March, I darted from Athens to Central Greece to the Valley of the Muses before swooping down to eastern Crete. The surging feeling of energy across the Greek wine scene is so
