The landscape of price and quality in wine was always undulating. It had peaks and summits as well as lowlands. Access, though, was open; we had the right to roam. Most of us could make our way out of the valleys and strike off up the slopes occasionally.
In the last 20 years, that landscape has changed. The finest wines are now luxury goods: tokens of exclusivity. Exclusivity means exclusion. The high peaks are sealed off by
