As Proposition 12 takes effect, L.A. pitmasters face a 'once-in-a-generation' pork price crisis
LOS ANGELES — It's 10 a.m. on a hot Friday in July at Ray's Texas BBQ in Huntington Park. Sebastian Ramirez, who oversees the smokers with his brother, Raul, has already been awake for five hours. The pork spare ribs, cooked low and slow, have been in the smoker for four.
"Las costillas, Sebastian," says Raul, touching the brim of his hat that reads "GoodEnough."
"Ah. Sí. Las costillas," says Sebastian. While the rest of the kitchen prepares the gooey mac and cheese, crisp coleslaw and signature BBQ rice to be served as sides, Sebastian slides on a pair of thick rubber gloves burned to black at the fingertips. First right and then left. He then heaves open the metal doors to reveal a long slab of ribs, glistening beneath a swath of aluminum foil and beet-red parchment paper. A plume of smoke rushes out from behind the doors and hovers below the ceiling.
"Listos," he says. They're ready.
In less than two hours, a herd of industrial workers will form a line
