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It’s 10am at Chris’s Cafe in Axmouth Harbour, Devon, and the bacon is sizzling. The first few fishermen are arriving to take their seats, ready to enjoy a hearty breakfast meeting. Among the general chit chat and clinks of knives and forks comes an announcement with a distinctive American twang.

“Morning Dave,” says Californian Mandy Wolfe to local fisherman Dave Hancock. “I have a tab set up,” she hollers. “Go order!” Fishermen, she tells me, are notoriously hard to contact. But she adds: “I love it here.....”

Mandy, it quickly becomes apparent, is awesome and in charge here. For the past five years or so she has been the mouthpiece (or megaphone, as she puts it) for the small-scale vessel

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