LAST SUMMER I CONDUCTED an extremely scientific test to ascertain which were the best rosé wines currently available in Britain. This involved getting dozens of samples, from supermarket own labels to some quite smart wines from Provence. Then I invited the neighbours round and we drank them in the garden.
The winner wasn’t a celeb-endorsed yacht rosé, instead it came from a small estate called Château la Canorgue in Luberon, a part of the Southern Rhone famed, if famed is the right word, for its bulk red wines.
It certainly