Follow the travels of this intrepid pair and be ready for their book when it's available.
The military escort comprised two gun turret-equipped Humvees, just in case ISIS decided we might be good for target practice or would make for quality hostages. The explosions we didn't see caused delays, but the burnt-out wrecks we did see along the way showed why the Iraqi military was keen to ensure visitors made it through safely.
In a country you'd think would have no time for western tourists and wouldn't particularly care about their welfare, we found connections, empathy and help along with the expected bureaucracy, delays and military checkpoints.
Despite being on the road for eight years, the thought of crossing Iraq had filled me with irrational fears. These thoughts put so many riders off ever attempting their motorcycle travel dreams, let alone achieving them, but I can tell you that even an experienced traveller and adventure rider has these moments from time to time and for me it was the thought of crossing Iraq.
TÜRKIYE TO JORDAN
My partner Stu and I were in Adana, Türkiye, staying at the Turk Riders’ Chopper Clubhouse, wanting to get to Jordan. They had very kindly given us and our three dogs a pet-friendly home as well as help repairing our gear and servicing our motorcycles, and practical advice, including a rundown of our options for where to travel next. After spending several weeks with the bikers waiting for the weather to improve, Stu and I found ourselves facing a critical decision: how to reach Jordan