Walking into Bacchanalia in London’s Mayfair is like dying and going to Elton John heaven. Here, more is never enough. Statues of half-naked women and men and cantering horses fly offthe walls. The columns have flutes on their flutes. Almost every dish on the “Greco-Roman feasting” menu can come with extra caviar or truffle. “For those who long for escapism, sway this way,” the restaurant’s creator, Richard Caring, purrs.
The former rag trader turned ringmaster for the world’s moneyed elite? he also owns Annabel’s, Scott’s and Harry’s Bar in Mayfair? has another trick up his Giorgio Armani-tailored sleeve. In one corner of the restaurant is a gold-studded door so thick it looks bombproof. It’s certainly strong enough to keep out “civilians”. Behind it lies Apollo’s Muse, the world’s most exclusive private members’ club.
You cannot apply to join. That would be far too Soho House. You have to be invited. And, once invited, you have to stump up a joining fee, rumoured to exceed £100,000, with an
