5280 Magazine

Boom Times

As a kid, I would silently groan when my mom would plunk down a steaming bowl of magenta borscht for dinner. Teenage angst in full effect, I was convinced that no one I knew was being forcefed anything resembling beet soup. Fast-forward several decades and Molotov Kitschen & Cocktails, a new Ukrainian and Eastern European enclave on East Colfax Avenue, has me not only thinking about borscht anew, but also craving it.

As our server explained it, there are a million and one versions of the soup, all dependent on time and place. Not all are rib-sticking, not every bowl is served hot, and

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