Food as love: In post-quake Turkey, those with nothing share everything
Ayda Suadioğlu’s fingers move as if they are extensions of industrial kitchen machinery.
She tears off pieces of dough, her hands drenched in olive oil, then flattens those pieces, rolls them into tubes, and twists them up in one breathless sequence.
Ms. Suadioğlu is making , pastries typical of Antakya in southern Turkey, topped with meat and pomegranate molasses. Next, she turns to , or stuffed meatballs. Her hands mold each shell, composed of meat, bulgur, and spices, so nimbly they too look flawless. Both dishes will join a table of tabbouleh – this version with tomato and pepper, a meatball and yogurt soup.
