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    The Second Biggest Disaster at Mount Vesuvius

    Like an increasing number of national parks in the United States, Mount Vesuvius has begun rationing access with a quota system. The system has had some problems.
    by Greg Rosalsky Jun 27, 2023 7 minutes
    March 1944: A cloud of ash hangs over Vesuvius during its worst eruption in more than 70 years. In the foreground is the city of Naples. The nearby towns of Massa and San Sebastiano were destroyed by the flow of lava. (Photo by Keystone/Getty Images)

    I recently got married and spent the last few weeks honeymooning in Italy. And just ... wow, what a wonderful country. The culture and the history. The food. The sea and the mountains. The food. Did I mention the food?

    The literal — but not the figurative — high point of our trip was summiting Mount Vesuvius. The storied volcano, which towers over the vibrant metropolis of Naples, famously erupted and buried the Roman cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum in 79 AD. It remains an active volcano. The last time it erupted was in 1944, when Italy was under Allied occupation during World War II. Beyond its historical and geological significance, the 4,203-foot volcano has some incredible views of the mountains and cities of Campania and the Bay of Naples.

    We decided to eschew the bus tours that take you close to the top and instead hike the volcano ourselves. We approached the summit through La Valle Dell'Inferno, which translates to "The Valley of Hell." With colorful wildflowers, stunning vistas, and magnificent rock sculptures shaped by ancient lava flows, the hike through the valley was the opposite of hell.

    Ironically, the real hell was when we

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