A SALAD DOES not need to be a bowl of lettuce. It simply needs to provide tonic to duller flavours, to sharpen a meal’s edges, to help define where one taste stops and another begins.
Italian salads are often just a single raw or cooked vegetable, sliced thinly and dressed with a drizzle of vinegar and olive oil. In France, they are happy little mops of celery root, doused in vinegar and mixed with crème fraîche and
