New Zealand | TRAVEL
In a land where spectacular roads are ten a penny, the Forgotten World Highway stands out – and not just because of its name. The thousands of surrounding Toblerone-like hills in a concertina landscape – deep valleys below their steep and rippled sides – are unlike anything I've seen. New Zealand's first designated tourist route is 93 miles of extraordinary scenery.
What I also found amazing is how we barely saw another soul until we reached the Republic of Whangamōmona, population about 120. This quirky place self-declared as a republic in 1989. Past presidents have included a goat and a poodle.
That night was spent at the republic's campsite in the old school grounds. Shetland ponies, chickens and a friendly cat roamed, all sticking their noses (and beaks) into our 'van looking for treats.
It was the finale to yet another incredible day since we'd left Wellington, where we'd plodded up to the Botanic Garden, balmy with the scent of roses. In a city of hills, some houses even have their own cable cars. We, too, could have made it easier on ourselves by taking the 1902 cable car for an expansive view over the capital.
In Zealandia eco sanctuary, we marvelled at bird species thought to have been extinct, including the flightless takahē. The lush, forested valley resonated with birdsong.
We were charmed by Whanganui's tree-lined streets of heritage buildings. We loved the story in the Riverboat Museum and Riverboat Centre – yet another splendid edifice – of how the abandoned paddle steamer, Waimarie, was rescued from the mud and restored to her former glory. We enjoyed the two-hour cruise on the ‘queen of the river' even more.
We especially liked Whanganui because it goes out of its way to cater for campers (see Top Tips). Victoria Park, our Freedom Camping spot, lit up at night. By day the Winter Gardens glasshouse shone with brilliant blooms. We'd bade goodnight to the cockatoos in the nearby aviary, getting a ‘bye bye'
