dentifying a through line on Such and Such’s menu isn’t easy. A meal might begin with stellar sourdough flatbread that’s more like a crumpet, given glossy sheen from a smear of extra-sharp toum. From there it could zig to a bowl of crunchy fried school prawns and cashews, coated in a tingly “666
SUCH AND SUCH
May 21, 2023
2 minutes
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