SINGAPORE
The actual weight of 11 meticulously considered dishes is trivial compared with the weight of expectation resting on a chef attempting to encapsulate a nation’s cuisine into a single degustation.
Nelly Robinson faces this ‘Merlion’ of a challenge as he conceives a ‘Singapore reimagined’ tasting menu for his eponymous restaurant, Nel, in Sydney’s Surry Hills.
How does an English-born, Australian-based fine-dining chef capture the complex, culturally diverse and fiery cuisines of this geographically bantam-sized geopolitical giant of a country on 11 plates?
A little black book heaving with local culinary contacts and a bespoke week-long gastronomic tour of Singapore is how.
“Singapore has some of the world’s best street food, middle-ground restaurants