It’s warm here in the ancient Greek ruins of Mycenae. I run my fingers over the sun-baked walls of the 15th-century BC citadel, built of stones so massive they’ve been called cyclopean – as if only a giant Cyclops could have wielded them. Yet despite the morning heat, I can’t help but shiver. This citadel once held a palace. And it was in that palace that, according to ancient Greek mythology, Queen Clytemnestra murdered her husband Agamemnon after he returned from the Trojan War. The bathroom where it happened is still here, steps from where I stand.
Such thrills are not uncommon in the Peloponnese. On Greece’s ray-drenched southern peninsula, myth is tangible. Natural beauty comes in epic proportions, citrus and olive
