Big-wave surfer Laird Hamilton calls himself an innovator and refers to the ocean as his second home. Both of those descriptions are incredibly accurate and maybe don’t give Hamilton enough credit for what he has accomplished in the surfing world. He has not only dominated the biggest waves but also invented the most highly technical water boards and gear. This is the man who co-invented tow-in surfing and continued to perfect it. He has found himself at the bottom of the ocean and even lost at sea.
He has also enjoyed side careers that include acting and modeling, served as a stunt man for a host of big-name actors, explored the fields of fitness and nutrition, and authored books. But it is in the ocean where Hamilton feels most comfortable.
Today, the 6-foot-3-inch, 215-pound 59-year-old
