wafts from the Shui Dong baby back ribs, announcing delights to come. That intensely flavorful spice blend encrusts unctuous beef inside, yielding a tingly heat that dances on the tongue without overwhelming the flavor of the rich meat. To perfect that dish, Don Golden, chef-owner of Njord Haven in Swampscott, credits a travel delay in Shanghai. Before his rescheduled flight, he whiled away hours at a tiny side-street restaurant that was renowned for ribs. Golden couldn’t speak
EAST MEETS WEST
Mar 22, 2023
3 minutes
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