This kopitiam is Malaysia’s foodie ground zero – it’s where the late Anthony Bourdain hoisted Sarawak laksa onto the world stage.
Mornings start gently in Kuching, in eastern Malaysia. The chill of twilight burns away quickly to leave the air thick and comforting, lulling all into a slow-moving entrance to the day ahead.
This colourful little city, with its alleyways of pastel-coloured Chinese shophouses, is gently carved in two by the Sarawak River. Old men row long, covered boats from shore to shore, ferrying neatly pressed office workers to the town centre, and it’s fair to say that I’m not feeling any rush in Kuching’s rush hour.
But first: a little geography lesson. Kuching is the capital of Sarawak, one of the two Malaysian states on the island of Borneo, which is carved
