I confess I didn’t know much about Viareggio before I took a trip there myself, but the idea of a coastal resort perched in the northwest of Tuscany was – of course – very appealing. Arriving in early September I was first struck by the end-of-season air about the place, with legions of unoccupied sunloungers stationed on the beach. There was, however, still a hot wind blowing in from the sea, and plenty of warmth in the sunshine. Holidaymakers still strolled around in flip-flops and beachwear and there were plenty of takers for ice cream at the gelaterie along the beach.
The beach in Viareggio seems an endless stretch of golden sand, peppered with sunloungers and rollmat paths down to the sea. Beach bars, shops and cafés line the edge of the sand along the Via Margherita, which boasts original art nouveau architecture from the 1920s and 30s. At this time Viareggio was the height of holiday fashion, with its exclusive ‘bathing clubs’ and thriving arts scene. The buildings haven’t changed much over the years, and wandering down Via Margherita in the evening with the palm trees rustling you get the feeling of being on a film set. Caffè Margherita is particularly impressive, with red and yellow tiled minarets and a grand roadside terrace.
