he morning sun peeks out from the eastern horizon. Uluru glows aubergine and orange on a plain of long, spindly shadows cast by desert oak trees. Zebra finches swoop across fields of spinifex and bounce on the branches of honey grevillea. Mutitjulu Waterhole is mirror-still, reflecting the perfect plunge and curve of half-a-billion-year-old sandstone rising into wide blue sky. Uluru takes my breath away, crouched
