I always look forward to spending spring in Sicily. Its almost constant sunshine and heat are enough to banish any winter blues from home and finish off the last of the bugs. However, as the ferry landed in the port of Palermo, so did the clouds. The first few days of our holiday would have to be spent wearing all the layers of clothes we had packed in our ‘van and exploring Sicily rather differently.
We had planned to spend our first night in an overnight parking area in Alcamo by the imposing Castello dei Conti di Modica. The castle was built in 1350 by the wealthy Peralta family in the shape of a rhombus with battlement towers on each corner, containing a torture chamber, guard room and guest quarters. Its purpose was to keep control of the wheat trade in western Sicily, to defend against theft by Saracen pirates and to provide a luxurious home for the family. It seemed like a good enough place for us to call home for a night.
For centuries, rich families exploited Sicily, often using tax officers called gabellotti to collect monies using intimidation and force.
Sicily's troubles and disorganised judicial systems continued throughout the generations, eventually giving rise to localised groups of bandits and the more widespread and renowned Mafia.
One of the most notable bandits in the area was the flamboyant Salvatore Giuliano. His black market imports of food and his willingness to steal from rich landowners to give food to
