Chugging up a high-hedged lane, a view opens up at the top of the hill. From my lofty vantage point above the coastal towns of Lynmouth and Lynton, an area dubbed Exmoor’s Little Switzerland, I pull over and wind down the window to take in the scene: a colour-saturated landscape of wooded green valleys and steel-blue sea that fades to a shimmering horizon. I breathe in the salt-infused air and feel a bubble of excitement for the days ahead.
‘Woolacombe is on the doorstep –
