THE EXPERTS
Where’s good for churrasco in São Paulo?
Catherine Balston: Churrasco — the culture of barbecuing meat — dates back to Brazil’s tropeiros, travelling traders who drove horse and cattle between commercial regions during the early days of 17th-century colonial rule.
A handful of churrasquerías (steak houses) in São Paulo still use the fogo de chão technique (slow-roasting beef on barbecues built on the ground), most famously the eponymous Fogo de Chão (), where sides of beef slowly sizzle and drip over a fire pit. It ’s an allyou can-eat affair, with waiters spinning around armed with spits of beef (more than a dozen different cuts) and
