Italia Magazine

A Day at the Races

You’ll find them along the old Appian Way in Rome, a few hundred yards south of the San Sebastian Catacombs : two ruined towers in a field east of the road. There’s a gate marked Villa di Massenzio and entr y is free. When you reach the towers, you’ll see two crumbling brick walls extending from them, in parallel, forming the long sides of a grassy field. A stone arch stands where the walls end in the distance. A long , low, brick barrier bisects the field leng thwise. You don’t need to have read Pliny or Suetonius to know that you’ve found an

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