Sumba, Indonesia
It’s 10am in Sumba, the sky is thick with a vast dome of darkening cumulus clouds, the temperature already a steamy 32˚C. In an open-air safari-like vehicle, we motor along quiet, winding roads, south from the island’s tiny Tambolaka airport towards NIHI Sumba (www.nihi.com), a 27-villa resort set amid 567 acres of land on a pristine, palm-fringed beach. As the sky roils gently above, we rumble past limestone hills, dry savannah landscapes, thickets of emerald jungle, rice paddies and peaceful hilltop villages, the homes with their peak-shaped, thatched roofs clustered around megalithic tombs. In fact, apart from its wild, untouched beaches, where horses still roam free, one of the most defining aspects of this near-pristine Indonesian island is its isolated way of life and unique Marapu faith. Following their ancestral religion, Sumbanese people worship the spirits of their ancestors, whom they believe live around them. ‘It’s why the roofs of our homes are so tall. This is a sacred space reserved for the spirits of our ancestors,’ explains Anggi, our driver.
The hotel itself, located alongside the island’s most famous surf spot, is a Sumba original, built in 1988 by Claude and Petra Graves, who were on a mission to honour the island’s beauty and way of life. Since then, little has changed. Bar a few small boutique properties, the next big arrival is Cap Karoso (www.capkaroso.com), a much-anticipated 67-room resort due to open this month and set along the island’s little explored, wild western fringes. A project from first-time hoteliers Fabrice and Eve Ivara, the modern, design-led property will focus on food, using ingredients grown on the resort’s organic farm.
For the moment, NIHI, which is now owned by American financier Chris Burch and South African hotelier James McBride, remains a magical place—and not only for its setting alongside a private, one-mile stretch of pristine, palm-fringed beach. Days here can be as active or relaxed as you wish: sunset rides along the surf, lazy afternoons by the pool or a day experiencing Spa Safari Nihioka. The experience starts with a peaceful early-morning 90-minute meander through bucolic landscapes, past traditional villages to a breezy hideaway where breakfast is served in a cantilevered dining space overlooking a private cove, followed by unlimited spa treatments in your private, open-air pavilion.
Then there’s the Sumba Foundation to consider. Founded by Mr Graves at the time he built the resort, the private, non-profit organisation aims to help ease
