WHEN PEOPLE THINK OF Indonesia, they often picture Bali and its picturesque beaches. But as I sat aboard a train on the neighbouring island of Java, passing rice terraces, ancient temples, and glorious expanses of forest overlooked by towering mountains, I wondered: why not here, too?
Java is home to more than 140 million people, making it the world’s most populous island. In 2016 I spent a year living in the province of Central Java, where I taught English at a military boarding school in Semarang, a port city on the northern coast. During my time there, I fell in love with Java’s national parks, ancient temples, and dynamic cities—and I returned for the first time this past August, seeking to reconnect.
Some of my most memorable experiences had occurred in Yogyakarta, a storied city about 563 kilometres east of Jakarta, Indonesia’s densely populated capital. In “Jogja,” as locals call it, I found a compelling amalgam of historic architecture, resilient Javanese culinary traditions, and creative spirit—with a burgeoning population of
