Travel + Leisure India & South Asia

BEYOND THE GHATS

HE PEARLY WHITE PALACE glistens in the golden rays of the setting sun after an unexpected summer shower. A gentle a breeze from the east, wafts softly into the Gangetic plains of Uttar Pradesh, brings with it the mellow fragrance of the Banarasi mango. On my left is an imposing porch with the royal horse carriage, on my right an ancient marble temple; beautifully manicured lawns greet me ahead while a cobbled pathway with huge iron gates stands behind. I had arrived in Varanasi expecting to witness many things but seeing palaces was not on the list, and here I am, standing at the helm of a palace in the middle of

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