Garden & Gun

A Mississippi Burger Beacon

Fredric McCann, an assistant football coach at Wayne County High, watches Rosebud Chaffin pull three burgers off the grill at Cooley’s Hamburgers, a hutch of a restaurant near the Alabama line in the small piney-woods town of Waynesboro, Mississippi. He wears gray sweats and a big smile. When McCann was a boy, his father bought him Cooley’s burgers after he chopped morning firewood or fed the cows and chickens.

Now McCann, who also teaches high school students to navigate the pulpwood-truck-clogged streets of Waynesboro, uses the alley and gravel parking lot here as a

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