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Behind a glass wall printed with the slogan HOME OF THE BISCUIT WINDOW, Cynthia Yow mixes flour and buttermilk and shortening in a wide bowl. She wears a white chef jacket and a white hat stitched with the tagline FRESH SOUTHERN. To her right, painted wheat stalks play across a field of corrugated tin. Next to the register, mounted on wallpaper that looks like weathered barnwood, a constellation of icons mark the local and regional sources of the ingredients that come out of this kitchen: Flour from Henderson, North Carolina. Country ham from Wilkesboro, North Carolina.

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