“We're not creating food for the wine,” Humm notes, “but it's part of the thought process.” And he makes a good point about the larger dilemma: “Often you're pairing with the preparation, not the meat itself.”
ELEVEN MADISON is hardly the only place where the issue has recently come to the fore, and to tackle the topic of big red wines and vegetable-forward food, you have to get into the details of astutely selecting accompaniments. (Or you can go on with your life happily drinking white wines, of course, but the day when that gets old may come.)
At the equally lauded Blackberry Farm and Blackberry Mountain in Tennessee, vice president of food and beverage Andy Chabot notes that even though the restaurants are anything but meat-free, demand for such fare is strong enough that vegetarian and
