Cook's Illustrated

Khua Kling: Not Just for Chile-Heads

A tumble of tiny morsels of pork generously coated in a golden and aromatic curry paste, khua kling is one of the spiciest dishes in southern Thailand, an area known for its capsicum-rich cuisine. But to classify it simply as spicy is to do khua kling a disservice: Galangal, lemongrass, and lime leaves lend it an astonishingly vibrant citrusy-floral fragrance; fermented shrimp paste and fish sauce provide plenty of funk and salt; and turmeric anchors it all with a subtly earthy base note.

There’s so much going on in each bite that spooning up your khua kling with steamed jasmine rice, in a proportion of roughly 1 part pork to 2 parts rice, is strongly advised because the dilution enables you to appreciate every nuance without being overwhelmed by the heat or disturbing the balance of flavors. In fact, Pailin Chongchitnant, cookbook author, YouTube cooking star, and the force behind the website , described khua kling as “a seasoning for rice” in a video call from Vancouver, British Columbia. She favors tossing her portions of pork and rice together until she’s calibrated

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