When I was growing up in the suburbs of Atlanta, my parents’ garden teemed with hardy, wavy-edged collard greens. Resilient and easy to grow, the greens flourished from late autumn through early winter—but my mother always insisted that they were at their best after the season’s first frost. That’s when she would harvest the sinewy leaves and stew them for hours on the stovetop, making that year’s finest pot of braised collard greens yet.
Tender braised collard greens, infused with the rich flavor of smoked