I first saw Edinburgh when a plasterer let my girlfriend and me off in Princes Street, right at the centre of Scotland’s majestic capital. It was 6am on Christmas Day. We ran for a bus to get to her parents who lived in the suburbs by a stream and a hill. It was all so strangely new. And even though it was Christmas Day 58 years ago, you’d have thought it was an ordinary day. New Year was the big Scottish celebration, and Christmas seemed to stop at the Scottish border.
Last week I arrived at Waverley station by