Heavy clouds hang above the boat like an umbrella. Dark blue as far as the eye can see, promises to break at any instant. This is the place where African rainstorms found their thunder. This is Chobe, in the furthest north-eastern corner of Namibia, and arguably the wildest wonderland in the country.
The waterway leads us to Serondela, a classic safari lodge accessible only by boat. En route to our luxury destination from Kasane the river is buzzing with houseboats, tourists on cruises, fishermen