few low-slung buildings lie scattered around an orchard of plum, pear, cherry and apple trees. The Zabarwan Hills and Dachigam National Park loom behind. In front lies the shimmering sprawl of the Dal—a view to die for. Have I indeed died, because this is paradise for sure. I arrive at Qayaam Gah, Srinagar’s hottest hotel opening of the year, at the magical hour of dusk. As I step out of the 4WD that has transported me up the pebbled dirt track, the cold makes its undeniable presence felt. Autumn,
