Garden & Gun

Seafood Salute

Do oysters on the half shell taste even better at nine in the morning? In a restaurant that also does right by olive oil muffins with passion fruit curd, should you go marine or sweet? Eat breakfast at the front bar at Seabird, which opened last spring in downtown Wilmington, North Carolina, and these questions float through your head.

Dinner promises much, including a riff on cioppino, thick with clams and grouper and scallops and fennel, with a slab of rouille-smeared sourdough planted

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