CHARLESTON BY THE DISH

THERE’S LATELY BEEN MUCH HAND-WRINGING in Charleston over the state of the local restaurant scene, which a decade or so ago scaled previously unimaginable heights: As openings and accolades mounted, trusted writerly types with epicurean chops called it one of the best places to eat in the world. They weren’t exactly wrong.

Current anxieties have been stoked by downtown rents, which have risen sharply, and the availability of restaurant workers, which hasn’t. Yet neither challenge has seemed to slow the rate of restaurant openings. Some longtime players wonder if new hotels can possibly hold enough diners to fill all of the seats. But start eating what’s being served in Charleston today, and it’s clear the city’s food credentials are intact. In fact, deliciousness per capita may have surpassed record levels. Chefs and bartenders have always had the advantage of year-round fresh fruits and vegetables, as well as a sea full of fish. But now they have access