MUTI-DAY hikes in Europe can often be done hut to hut, generally by people who are more organised than me. The huts are usually excellent, offering beds, three-course meals and drinks – and can book out fast. But if you have a tent, you don’t need a plan, right?
When my partner Peter and I decided to take on the Haute Route, a 10-14 day hike from Chamonix to Zermatt through the Alps, we decided to play it all by ear. As well as not requiring advance planning, this would allow us to keep our itinerary flexible. From the beginning, we agreed: we could have short days or even rest days; we could jump on a bus to skip sections. Most of all, we’re doing this for fun.
Full disclosure, I had misjudged a recent hike in the Dolomites, which I had planned with uncharacteristic diligence and booked huts months in advance. I inadvertently locked us into a punishing schedule, and on our final day, after nearly two weeks, as we staggered down the last hill,