Cushioned by spongy tundra ablaze in its fall hues of red, yellow and orange, my feet lead the rest of my body up a mountain, step by luxuriant step, breath by glorious breath. A golden eagle glides overhead in the silent sky.
Far across the valley, a lone dark shape with the distinctive hump of a grizzly bear munches its way through swaths of blueberries. Small silhouettes of a half-dozen ungulates