Bali is one of the most extraordinary islands in the world. From black beaches and a smouldering volcano, to wild jungle and manicured rice terraces, to quiet mountain roads winding through clove forests and the scooter frenzy near umbrella-packed beaches, there is always a Hindu ceremony nearby and the promise of a spicy meal. I would recommend you travel from the island's tourist hotspots to its quietest corners, and from trailblazing restaurants to home-style eateries (see my five-day itinerary on page 178). Road-tripping using local drivers is easy and affordable to arrange once you're on the island.
1 MOST-LOVED VEG FARE
It seems as if a trendy new café opens almost every week in Canggu, Bali's hipster hangout. One that's long been a favourite is a breezy vegetarian spot so popular that even in a neighbourhood bursting with cafés, you'll often have to wait for a table. Yes, the food
