n Britain, we rely on supermarkets for everything: moral guidance, entertainment, free food, heating. We treat them like churches rather than somewhere to buy a bottle of Lenor. Ask anyone about Aldi or Lidl and they’ll get misty-eyed about their favourite products, wax lyrical about Kevin the Carrot, or go on for hours about how they once got an air fryer and a speedboat from the middle aisle for
