ON MY WAY BACK FROM GETTING a Covid test, I stumbled on a scenario deep in North London woodland that made me want to rush back to the makeshift clinic and shove another sharp stick up my nose — the local farmers’ market I usually manage to avoid under pain of death.
The first thing I saw was a number of individuals taking photographs of purple carrots and multi-coloured tomatoes to doubtless upload them to Instagram. Customers were shoved out of the way so they could achieve the perfect shot. I can imagine the description that would be added to the images: “At my local market. Buying all organic produce to juice and buying a load of Guatemalan coffee beans to support local farmers. #FoodIsMood”
Carefully navigating the Bugaboos, words leapt out at me from the stalls: “gluten
