It’s approaching midnight, but the food keeps coming. Arctic char with chanterelles and plums. Spiced monkfish with smoked fiddlehead greens. Yakatori-style langoustine served on a dish made with crustacean shells. I’m already stuffed, but two desserts (rhubarb sorbet and fresh milk ice cream) and a selection of petit fours (baby miso buns and waffles) are yet to come.
Like Norway’s summer light, the ambitious 20-course menu at Credo — one of three restaurants in Trondheim to be awarded a Michelin star in the past couple of years — lasts well into the night. Hours earlier, I’d started with seaweed and oyster tartlets served on the restaurant’s mezzanine, a cosy hangout with low-slung leather chairs and a gallery dedicated to images of the restaurant’s cows, before continuing in the former dairy turned minimalist dining room, where local produce plays a leading role, from smoked scallop to grilled char.
“When I opened Credo in 1998, chefs in Trondheim didn’t know what to do with a scallop or langoustine head,” says Heidi Bjerkan, the first female chef in Norway to head up
