When I first visited Bordeaux, the sleepy landscape of turreted stone châteaux and vineyards seemed timeless, with traditions so well established you felt they would go on forever. But new energy in this famous wine region is visible and audible: bees buzz and sheep graze in organic vineyards; brand-new cellars brim with sustainable features and wine fermenting in trendy amphorae; unusual grapes are gaining attention; and the number of women in key roles keeps growing. Yoga among the vines is surely coming.
Change is Bordeaux’s new constant, and innovative winemakers and château owners across every appellation are helping to upend the status quo.
Who are they? They’re the younger generation, which has travelled widely and sees the challenges of climate change. They’re newcomers from elsewhere, bringing new ideas to estates they have purchased.
Crus classés are rethinking sustainability and issuing manifestos, like the 2021 manifesto from Château Cheval Blanc on ‘promoting (anti)conventional viticulture’ – acall for a return to the principles of agroecology. Many other estates, some tiny, are making their names through unusual cuvées and eco-conscious experiments.
Here are my picks for eight top innovators in the region, who are all making a difference right now.
