CHANGE COMES TO ST-EMILION

Something intriguing is happening in St-Emilion. Call it a quiet mutation, but since the latter part of the last decade a stylistic change has become steadily more apparent. Fruit, freshness and drinkability have become the new mantra, while overripeness, heavy extraction and the imprint of oak are being toned down or even eliminated. Finesse is what’s required, driven by a desire to rein in excess, promote terroir and advance the demands of a new era.

It’s not yet systematic among the region’s 600-odd growers, but there’s plenty of thought and discussion on the topic. A new generation and certain oenologists are advancing the cause and, now the word of Robert Parker is no longer absolute, there’s greater liberty in the way wines can be made. Some producers, though, are still being cautious, warning that the pendulum should not swing too far in the other direction. Come what may, wines from vintages from 2014 onwards have progressively shown greater purity and precision.

Moving with the times

As examples of the new flow of things, Châteaux Canon and Figeac are often cited as role models, having always embodied elegance, even